How to properly connect a cable in a laptop. Connecting and disconnecting connectors on cables. Replacing the hard drive and WiFi module

Train is called a flat cable that connects various elements and blocks in a computer and other electronic devices. When independently assembling, upgrading or repairing a computer, the user has to disconnect and connect cables. Connecting them incorrectly may result in the computer not working.

Instructions

To ensure that the cable cannot be inserted incorrectly, so-called keys are usually introduced into its design - protrusions and grooves that allow only correct installation. However, some devices may still be connected incorrectly - for example, if you put two devices on the same IDE cable. The middle connector on the cable may not contain a key, which causes difficulties when connecting the device.

Take a close look at the cable - its first wire is red. Then look at the connector of the connected device; the first and last pins are marked with numbers on it. The colored wire on the cable must match the first pin of the connector.

Even if two devices are correctly connected to one loop, they may not work or malfunction if the jumpers on them are incorrectly set. On the device connected to the end of the loop, the jumper must be in the master position. On the second device connected to the middle connector, the jumper is placed in the slave position. If a hard drive and a DVD hang on the same cable, then the hard drive should be the master; it is connected to the end of the cable.

When connecting the cable, do not use force. If the block does not fit, it means you are inserting it backwards or the contacts are not aligned correctly. Very often you have to connect the cable almost by touch, which causes difficulties. Holding the cable block by the edges, feel the edges of the mating connector with your fingertips. Then, gently rocking the block, align it with the connector and carefully insert it. If connected correctly, you will feel that it is inserted approximately 5 mm.

Connecting SATA cables usually does not cause any problems, since their connectors cannot be inserted incorrectly. Many of them have a special metal clamp that allows you to secure the cable more securely. Since only one device is always connected to a SATA cable, there is no need to worry about the position of the jumpers. Don't forget that SATA devices also have their own power connector. If your computer only has old power connectors (MOLEX), you will need a special adapter.

There was a Sony KDL 26P3000 TV in the closet - it’s not a bad television receiver at all and it didn’t work for long, less than three years, but something happened to the image and it began to disappear. Professional specialists at the Sony service center easily agreed to “put it back on its feet” for 12,000 rubles, but considering that it costs 18,000 they politely refused. We bought a new TV, and this one was at my complete disposal. In anticipation of a banal disassembly into its component components, I decided to check the guess made by a radio amateur I knew about a possible malfunction, which there is a chance to correct on my own.

To do this, it was necessary to remove the controller, including disconnecting the cable coming from the panel. Usually everything is simple when someone has already done it before your eyes, but here you had a negative experience. The specialist who removed the controller last time took a long time to get used to it and did not succeed right away; in a word, he was heartbroken. Well, the impression from this operation remained appropriate.

When I had a chance to do it myself, I coped with the bottom connector without any difficulty. Everything here is logical and obvious, so to speak predictable. At the bottom of the connector, on the sides, there are clearly visible metal elements of a U-shaped profile, between which and the main plastic element there is a large free gap, which immediately suggests the need to simultaneously compress them and then remove the “plug” from the “socket”. When the “plug” is removed, the latch itself is clearly visible, through which the connector is locked (fixed).

But the upper connector turned out to be “inadequate”, no protruding elements, no recesses or grooves. At first glance, all structural elements are equivalent; neither the main nor the secondary parts are visible. I rushed to the forum for help. The advice was as simple as all great things - “Pick it up with your fingernail and pull!” All that was left was to figure out what to pick up. I armed myself with a flashlight and a magnifying glass and eventually got into it, we understand. It seems like smart people did it, but they created such a primitive thing (just kidding, of course).

In the working position, the clamp bar (the right side of the entire structure) is lowered (it would be even more correct to say latched) and holds the cable going to the liquid crystal panel. This is where the radio amateur needs to slip his fingernail under it (of all the available repair tools, this one turned out to be the most effective in this operation and safe for the integrity of the connector). A small nuance, you need to cling to the very edge of the bar, then it will not come off, but will turn on the tides on the sides and become vertical, at the same time releasing the train. The nail may slip off the first, second, or even third time, but in the end the desired result will be achieved. This can be clearly seen in the simple but clear video below.

An article about how to disassemble a laptop and make minor repairs on your own without having to take it to a service center. The article discusses the principle of replacing RAM, WiFi module, hard drive and keyboard, as well as completely dismantling the motherboard.

Not so long ago, having, in addition to a regular desktop PC, a laptop at home was considered almost a symbol of the owners’ wealth! Today, almost everyone has laptops of various types and sizes, from first-grader Petenka to pensioner Uncle Mitya on the bench :).

Recently, one can observe a certain decline in interest in laptops in favor of tablets and smartphones... However, in my opinion, this trend is temporary, since touchscreens cannot yet fully replace the traditional keyboard and mouse. Therefore, contrary to all forecasts, it is still very, very early to “write off” portable computers! But sometimes you have to repair them...

Why, why and how :)

Any technology tends to become outdated and break down. And the more complex it is, the more often it will require attention. Laptops, unfortunately, are no exception in this regard... Their most common breakdowns are:

• clogging of the cooling system with household debris and (as a result) overheating of the processor;
• mechanical damage to motherboards and LCD monitor matrices as a result of drops or sudden changes in network voltage (if the laptop is used as a stationary work PC, powered from an outlet);
• chafing or burnout of keyboard, touchpad and monitor cables;
• liquids getting inside the laptop (anything can burn as a result of a short circuit);
• failure of any components (hard drive, RAM, WiFi module, etc.).

As you can see, there can be quite a few reasons for repairs. In addition, the need to open a laptop may also be caused by the desire to make a planned upgrade by adding, for example, a new RAM stick or a more powerful processor. Therefore, in order not to languish, let’s quickly get to the point :)

Where to begin

To disassemble a laptop at home, we need at least two screwdrivers: a small Phillips screwdriver for unscrewing the screws securing the case and parts, and a thin flat one for carefully opening the case. In addition, it is advisable to come up with some kind of organizer for sorting unscrewed screws and temporarily storing various small parts.

A digital camera can also be useful, with which you will record all your actions. It will give you the opportunity not to forget what, where and how it was, and accordingly, assemble the laptop so that there are no “extra” parts left :)

And today we will basically disassemble a working Samsung N145 netbook from 2010:

This laptop has already had to be repaired. The power button and the monitor matrix were broken (as a result, there is now a crack on the display body and it is sealed with glue, and therefore we will not disassemble it). Otherwise, everything works great and, I hope, will work for a long time :)

You should start disassembling any laptop by unplugging it from the mains, turning it over and disconnecting the battery. This way, firstly, we will completely de-energize the device (and therefore avoid a short circuit), and secondly, we will open access to the case latches (in some models, a pair of case screws may be hidden under the battery). To remove the battery, you usually need to simultaneously pull the floating latches in different directions and pull the battery towards you.

Next, we carefully examine the location of the screws holding the case and keyboard. Usually the latter are marked with the inscription “kbd” and there are from three to seven of them. The remaining screws (which are not marked in any way) will be case screws and they will need to be unscrewed to disassemble the laptop.

Something happened to my memory...

Before completely disassembling the laptop, please note that some models may have special inspection holes on the back of the case for access to components such as RAM, hard drive, expansion ports, etc. Such holes are usually covered with a small cap, which is attached to the housing with just one screw and allows easy access to the part without having to open the entire housing.

In our netbook, such a cover covers the RAM strip; accordingly, the screw holding the cover is marked “Memory”. By unscrewing it and removing the plug, we will be able, if necessary, to quickly replace the RAM strip:

The memory board itself can be held in laptops either using a special clamping bar (which needs to be moved to the side), or (as in our case) by two metal clamping plates on the sides. The latter are rigidly fixed, but can slightly bend away from the memory bar. Accordingly, to release it, you need to simultaneously press both pressure plates. The board is inserted back using light pressure until the latches click.

What will the autopsy show?

Unfortunately, there may not be a way to quickly access the components of your particular laptop model, so disassembly is a must :)

First of all, we need, as mentioned above, to remove the battery, unscrew all the screws that are on the back of the case, and also remove all the plugs and other caps (if any). At this stage, the main thing is to remember which screw was placed where, since they come in different lengths and with different thread strokes! For this, the ideal option would be a special plastic sorter with several compartments. However, the screws can be completely arranged in groups on a regular white sheet of A4 paper. The main thing is that you remember where each of them comes from! Here, for example, is how I arranged all the details:

When everything is unscrewed, we take a flat-head screwdriver with a thin tip into our hands and find a place where we can insert it into the gap between the bottom and top covers of the laptop case. We do this carefully so as not to break the plastic. When the place is found, lightly press the screwdriver up and down alternately to create leverage. As a rule, after pressing in the right direction, the plastic latches inside are released and the case begins to open:

Similarly, we use a screwdriver around the entire perimeter of the case. As a result, we should get a carefully removed, undamaged bottom cover and access to the motherboard and laptop parts:

In order not to damage the cover, you need to remember one single rule: “DO NOT APPLY GREAT FORCE when pressing on the screwdriver”!!! If you notice that in one or more places the lid does not want to open, carefully check to see if there are hidden screws holding it in place in that area. They can be located under various stickers or under the rubber anti-slip feet on which your laptop stands on the table. Be careful and don't rush!

What's inside?

Once the cover is safely removed, you can take a closer look at the internal structure of the laptop:

The following components will definitely be present inside:

• the motherboard to which all the parts are attached;
• hard drive (usually 2.5-inch SATA or SSD);
• one or more sticks of RAM (in modern systems, most often DDR3 of a reduced form factor);
• a processor with (most often) an air cooling system under a copper radiator;
• speakers.

Optionally there may also be:

• video card (usually in laptops of medium and high price categories);
• WiFi, Bluetooth, NFC and/or infrared port module for organizing wireless connection of peripherals and devices;
• various expansion cards, such as card readers, additional USB 3.0 or FireWire ports, etc.

Already at this stage of disassembly, we have access to almost all components that can be replaced, so we don’t need to disassemble further. Just change the part that requires it and you can assemble everything as it was. We are faced with the task of completely disassembling the entire laptop, so we will continue in order :)

Replacing the hard drive and WiFi module

We take a close look at our motherboard to identify the screws that are still holding it in place. Two of them are found on the hard drive fasteners. We unscrew them and carefully take out the hard drive itself:

In laptops, hard drives are usually attached to the motherboard using a special “basket”, which is fixed to the case with four screws, and connected to the motherboard using a special cable. To, for example, replace a hard drive with a new one (more productive or capacious), you just need to disconnect (again carefully) the cable plug from the old one, and then, when the old hard drive is already in our hands, remove it from the “basket” and replace it on new.

Another screw that may prevent the motherboard from being removed may be located on the WiFi module. Even if there is no holding screw there, this module will still have to be disconnected, since two wires go from it to the antenna, which is located in the display case.

After you have removed all the large parts, carefully inspect the motherboard and unscrew the screws that remain unscrewed. At the same time, there is no need to unscrew the screws of the radiator that cools the processor (if you are not going to change it or lubricate it with new thermal paste). When everything is unscrewed, the last step remains - to disconnect the cables.

Disconnect cables and keyboard

In our experimental netbook, after unscrewing all the screws that held the motherboard, the only “fasteners” were the cables:

1. monitor cable;
2. sound trail;
3. touchpad cable;
4. keyboard cable.

The easiest way is to turn off the audio and video loops. They are simply pulled out of the socket using a flat-head screwdriver (it is not advisable to pull the wires). Carefully pry it on both sides one by one and slowly pull it out.

The situation is a little more complicated with the touchpad cable. It is pressed by a plug that needs to be pulled out. However, this plug has two small antennae on the sides that hold it in the desired position. To avoid breaking these antennae, first press them down slightly, and only then pull them out.

The last step is to disable the keyboard. In principle, this can be done without disassembling the entire laptop. You just need to unscrew the screws marked “kbd” and the keyboard can be pulled out. First you need to pry it off with a thin screwdriver from above. Then, when the top edge is free, pull the keyboard up a little until the bottom edge is pulled out of the latches. Now, everything is held in place only by a cable that needs to be disconnected from the motherboard:

The keyboard cable mounts may vary on different laptops. These could be plugs (as described in the case of the touchpad), pressure plates, or simple plugs. To properly disable it and not break it, always use a search query like “how to remove the keyboard on a laptop (your model).”

In the case of the Samsung N145 netbook, we are dealing with a clever clamping mechanism that is very similar to a regular plug. To open this mechanism, simply pull it up, after which the cable will be released and we can pull it out :)

Motherboard and touchpad

After disconnecting the last cable, there is nothing holding our motherboard anymore, and we can take it out, turn it over and see what its reverse side hides from us:

There's not much here :) Of what might interest us, there is the already familiar keyboard cable lock, touchpad buttons and BIOS battery. The latter may be of interest if you begin to notice that your laptop does not turn on the first time or even stops loading beyond the starting black screen. In this case, it may well be that the problem is a dead battery that needs to be replaced.

Alas, replacing the BIOS battery in a laptop is much more troublesome than in a regular PC, since it is not connected directly to a special socket, but through an adapter. The easiest, but also expensive way is to buy a similar battery completely assembled with an adapter and an adhesive part for fixing on the motherboard. But there is a more budget-friendly solution :)

If there is no ready-made battery or it is obscenely expensive, you can make it yourself :) To do this, remove the old one and free it from the black insulation to gain access to the wiring. Next, take a new battery of the same type and attach the removed wires to it (red is usually positive, and black is usually negative).

To keep the wires in place and to insulate the battery itself, it would be best to place the resulting structure in a heat-shrinkable tube of a suitable diameter. This way we will get an almost perfect adhesion of contacts without soldering and an appearance almost like the original :) The easiest way to glue the resulting structure to its rightful place is with thin double-sided tape.

Actually, we have everything regarding the motherboard. All we have to do is take one last look at what we have left on the body and can collect it :)

As you can see, the only spare parts left on the case are the speakers and the touchpad. If desired, they can also be removed and replaced, but there is usually no point in doing this. And in this case it’s unlikely to do without soldering, and not everyone can solder today... Therefore, at this point you can consider your acquaintance with the laptop device to be complete and it’s time to reassemble it :)

When assembling, we repeat all our steps in reverse order. This is where the photographs you took during disassembly (you took them, right? ;)) and correctly sorted screws can come in handy. When you put on the housing cover, do not rush to screw it on right away. Only tighten the screws holding the keyboard and try to start the laptop:

If the operating system boots, then try turning on regular Notepad and checking the operation of the keyboard by typing all the letters on it in turn. And only if everything works as it should, you can turn off the laptop and tighten the remaining screws. Congratulations on a successful build!

conclusions

As you can see, anyone can disassemble, replace a part and put their laptop back together! The main thing, I repeat once again, is not to use brute force again, think logically and act without haste. If you follow all these three rules, then in 70% of cases you will be able to independently “bring back to life” your laptop, which will serve you faithfully for many more years!

Naturally, this article can only serve as a guide, since it considers disassembling only one laptop model (more precisely, a netbook). Before opening your laptop, I strongly recommend that you find detailed instructions specifically for your model on the Internet and follow them. If you work carefully and thoughtfully, then everything will work out for you. Good luck!

P.S. Permission is granted to freely copy and quote this article, provided that an open active link to the source is indicated and the authorship of Ruslan Tertyshny is preserved.

Modern internal interfaces for connecting individual nodes inside digital equipment are almost impossible to imagine without cables.

These multi-core connections take on the role of moving joints between electrical boards, individual models and other circuit components.

The most common types of loop connections include:

1. Soldering (one of the most reliable methods, but it requires a certain technological process and equipment; overheating of circuit elements during soldering can damage them).
2. Various mechanical joints (clamps, inserts, etc., making such a connection is very simple, no additional equipment or skills are required, the disadvantages include low reliability - the cable may not be fully pressed, the contacts oxidize over time, etc.) .
3. Sticker on conductive glue/adhesive tape (we will dwell on this method of connecting cables in more detail).

What are the types of conductive glue for cables?

Initially, adhesive technologies were used to mount a chip on a substrate using a special conductive paste. In this case, soldering (that is, heating) was not required; the paste solidified, providing the necessary heat removal and conduction of electricity.

Later, the technology was adopted for connecting various kinds of displays and other digital equipment components.

Conductive adhesives provided reliable and fast adhesion with minimal dimensions (since there was no need for special connectors).

Modern conductive adhesives can be:

• Isotropic. They differ in that inside the conductive material there are no restrictions on the direction of current propagation; the medium is homogeneous. These can be ICA (isotropic adhesives) or ICP (isotropic pastes).
• Anisotropic. Inside a conductive material, current travels only in a certain direction. This group includes ACA (anisotropic conductive adhesives) and ACF (anisotropic conductive films).

The latter are most widespread in household appliances. So, using ACF you can glue the cable to the matrix of the LCD TV. The current will flow between the connected contacts strictly perpendicular to their surface inside the anisotropic tape.

The use of any adhesive mixtures is associated with certain restrictions. Various ACF films (adhesive tapes) are designed for joining certain types of materials; they require compliance with temperature and humidity conditions, the absence of dust and other small particles that impede adhesion, as well as certain conditions for pressing the bonded surfaces (minimal force, heating, etc.).

An important indicator of the use of ACF is the minimum required gap between the contacts (each type of film has its own).

VIDEO DESCRIPTION

How and how to glue the cable to the board

Most modern boards for digital technology use a mechanical method of connecting cables, however, in some cases, anisotropic conductive films (adhesive tape) or adhesives can be used.

To glue the flexible cable to the board in the case of ACF it is necessary:

1. Clean off any previous joint/tape residue with isopropyl alcohol.
2. Take an anisotropic adhesive film (for example, 3M Z-Axis 9703 is suitable; before use, be sure to make sure that the distance between the contacts does not exceed 0.4 mm, since a smaller size can cause a short circuit).
3. Remove the first protective layer and stick the film onto the board.
4. Remove the second protective layer from the ACF film.
5. Correctly match the contacts of the cable and the contacts on the board, attach the cable and press it evenly onto the surface of the board with sufficient force.

When carrying out work, be sure to take into account that there should be no dust or small particles in the air (if the sticker is being applied in a domestic environment, the work can be carried out in the bathroom).

The room temperature should be in the range from +20°C to 38°C (but not lower than +10°C).

How to glue a cable to the display - description of the method

The technology for installing cables using conductive adhesive tape is identical to the process of connecting the cable and the board.

Differences can only be in the supported materials (for example, Axis 9703 adhesive tape is not recommended for installation on glass surfaces; only 5352R and 5552R films from the same manufacturer are suitable) and the minimum recommended gap between contacts (for example, 3M Z-Axis 5552R film can be used for distance between contacts less than 100 microns).

Some conductive films or adhesives may require heat or force to be applied to the bonded surfaces during installation.

Before purchasing, be sure to read the specification of the film/adhesive. Specify the order of application.

Repairing torn cables with conductive tape

It often happens that during the process of disassembling displays or other complex equipment, when unsticking the cable, excessive force is applied and it breaks.

Purchasing such a simple-looking element can become an almost impossible task, since similar conductors cannot be found on sale, as well as donors (broken equipment from which spare parts can be removed).

In this case, ACF film or glue will save the situation, regardless of the type of cable.

The procedure is as simple as in the case of connecting a cable to a board or monitor.

1. The damaged section of the cable is cut out. To do this, the conductor is completely cut at a right angle in two places along the edges of the break (damaged area).
2. If necessary, in the joined area, the current-carrying parts are exposed (if the conductors in the middle of the loop are insulated) and treated with alcohol.
3. The first layer of protective film from the ACF is removed, and the tape is applied to the end of one of the cable trims.
4. The second protective layer is removed and the second piece of cable is applied.
5. Depending on the requirements of the film installation technology, heating or sufficient compression force at the connection point may be required (here it is important to take into account that heating is contraindicated for some types of cables, which means that the connecting film should be selected with installation without heating).

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

The disadvantage of this method of loop restoration is the reduction in its length.

First of all I would like to point out that Any practical use of this article is entirely at your own peril and risk! Remember, it's better to ask or Google (and sometimes just think a little longer) than to try to do something you don't understand.

It was necessary to disassemble the laptop in order to find the location of the bad contact in the power circuit. To do this, a wiring harness with a connector for connecting the adapter going to the motherboard was removed (for study, tightening the contacts and, if necessary, soldering in a problem area). It’s hard to name a component that would require disassembling the laptop in more detail to remove:

For this repair, we will need a Phillips screwdriver (choose the size carefully according to the screws) and a wooden or plastic strip, which you don’t mind periodically sharpening to the point of a chisel. A good option is a disposable Chinese chopstick. It will practically be a consumable item.

When disassembling, I recommend using small, lockable containers for screws with labels that clearly allow you to restore their purpose and location during reassembly. Lockable, because there is a high probability that after disassembly something will distract from the process, and it will be necessary to assemble and pack the disassembled device until better assembly times, and also so as not to scatter the screws all over the area during some local cataclysm. Whatever is on hand will do. This time we had plastic Eppendorf tubes at hand:

First of all, install the connector into the housing and carefully lay out the wiring harness as shown in the photo. It is almost impossible to insert the connector itself incorrectly - its shape is quite unambiguous. After installation, we attach the grounding screw to the housing with orange conductive coating.

Now we put the left speaker in place and secure it with two carefully preserved screws.
The screws must be tightened to a reasonable torque. It’s not worth making it too strong, “for centuries” - you can ruin the aesthetics of the screw slot, as well as deform the plastic. In addition, this will complicate the next possible disassembly.

Let's move on to the right loop of the monitor. Carefully lay the Wi-Fi antenna wire deep to the right of the right speaker, place the monitor hinges in their proper places and secure them with the appropriate screws.

The hinges are usually quite tight, so it is best to straighten them both at once and screw them together, placing the monitor body in the most comfortable position.

Views of the motherboard from below and from above, respectively:

When working with printed circuit boards, it is extremely important to be careful with static electricity. Regularly equalize your potential and the ground potential on the board (by touching the metal connector housing on the side of the board, for example). This is especially true when using woolen clothes and/or concentrated fidgeting in a chair, which will be difficult to do without. Ideally, it is good to use an antistatic wrist strap.

We install the motherboard in its proper place (it is also quite difficult to place it incorrectly). Do not forget to be careful when its connectors or other parts rest against the laptop body. If excessive force is applied, the contact of these parts with the board may be disrupted. Bending deformation is also not useful for the board.

Carefully hide the monitor cable deep to the right of the left speaker and connect it to the corresponding connector. The arrows indicate where to connect the cable:

We work very carefully and “sensually” with fastening the connectors of cables and simple wires. Smoothly holding both parts, we slowly apply insertion force until a characteristic soft click is felt. Depending on the connector, it can be very soft and not very clicky, but you can feel it quite well, in my opinion. You don't need to use too much force, it could damage the connector's solder joint or something worse.
It is convenient to separate the cables with our homemade wooden chisel. Its shape is a tribute to your ingenuity and love for comfort. It is usually convenient for it to be about 5-10mm wide and sharp enough to fit into a narrow slot. Also, the wooden stick will not close the contacts when you accidentally touch the board with it.

The screws that need to be installed in the next step are shown with red arrows. Next, we connect the cables of the Power button with LED, as well as the network card to the motherboard:


These two cables do not have a plastic connector at the end, but instead have a tab for easy removal. The tongue and cable, pressed against each other, form a structure rigid enough to be carefully inserted into the connector on the motherboard. With a sufficiently slow and careful application of force, you can feel that the cable has entered all the way. You can evaluate this by placing the end of the cable to the connector before inserting it and estimating the length to which it should go. Also, with some skill, you can carefully try to use only the tongue to insert the end of the cable into its proper place.

When we see during disassembly that there are many holes for screws, and only some of them are occupied at this stage, it is better not to be lazy and at least write down or sketch, or better yet, take a photo of this moment. Remembering such things can be difficult. For example, in the photo above you can see that of all the holes at this stage, only two require screws. The remaining holes imply through use with the top and/or bottom cover.

Now it's time to connect the expansion cards on the other side of the motherboard. Don’t forget to connect the connectors of the power wires, the battery board and the wi-fi antenna going into the monitor.

We insert the Wi-Fi card into its proper place in the mini PCI-E connector. Before doing this, we make sure that the contacts are clean. We do not touch the metal contact plates with our fingers. The card is secured with two screws.

We do the same with the modem. Its connector is vertical. Gently press it until you hear a characteristic smooth click. It is best to do this slowly to feel that the connector is fully seated. We also fix it with the corresponding screw from our “cash box”:

Now we put the optical drive in place. Its shape also leaves no doubt about the correctness/incorrectness of its placement. We insert the connector in the same way as we did with the network card, without touching the contacts. The drive should be pushed into the connector from right to left when looking at the open laptop in a natural way. We secure it with a screw from the side of the back cover.

The next stage of assembly will be connecting and securing the top cover:

I would like to immediately draw your attention to the fact that the operation of removing this cover, in my opinion, is the most potentially dangerous for both breakage and damage to the appearance of the device. There are two things to remember when disassembling.
Firstly, after you have unscrewed all the imaginable and inconceivable screws that, in your opinion, are holding the lid, you need to find where the plastic latches are located that can (and, most likely, will) hold it in place in addition to the screws. There can be two breakdowns here - either inaccurately prying off the lid with something hard and flat, leaving unpleasant traces of the “opening” of the patient in the areas where the lower and upper lids join, or the latch can be broken off, which can lead to the joint being loose, in it cracks form. Therefore, I recommend using a flat tool made of a material that is obviously softer than the material of the lids for prying. This can be a disposable Chinese stick, planed with a knife from the wide end to the state of a chisel, or a similar piece made of soft plastic. I recommend doing this “tool” by hand, because due to its softness, it doesn’t last long, after which it needs to be resharpened. However, this is a price to pay for the aesthetic pleasure of the joint in the body after assembly (if there was one in the first place). Once one side of the lid remains, which is held only by the latches, it is useful to rock the lid up and down, thereby carefully freeing it from their grip. At this moment, the main thing is not to rush, because it is one of the most “traumatic” for the person being repaired.
Secondly, as a rule, there are cables from the cover to the motherboard, the connectors of which can be located approximately in the center of the motherboard. It is quite easy to damage them in various parts. Therefore, after the cover has given way, carefully look under it, find out how and how it is connected to the motherboard in order to carefully disconnect it, without bringing the cables to critical deformation when lifting the cover.

In this case, the cables to the motherboard are quite accessible without lifting the cover.
By the way, Toshiba carefully indicated the markings of the screws for convenience. The presence of such markings (F  number) on an empty thread also indicates that a screw needs to be tightened on this layer of the assembly.

Among the fastening cables there are connectors with a folding plastic clamping strip:


We fold it back for installation, place the end of the cable clearly in the shallow recess for it (fix it in the transverse direction), and then insert it approximately along the dimples on the cable from the previous clamp. We close the plank. A correctly clamped cable should hold quite tightly. If it is removed, then you need to once again carefully and correctly position the cable in the recess for it and deepen it into the connector to the end before snapping it into place. Patience and accuracy when connecting cables will pay off when you don’t have to disassemble a fully assembled device again, because some of the equipment on board will not work (in this case, the touchpad or the lights on the case, or the buttons for the player above the keyboard, for example).

It is convenient to place the keyboard by tilting it towards you. Then it will be easy to connect the cable. Its connector is also equipped with a folding bar:

The keyboard is often secured with latches on the sides. In our case, they are below and above (the lower ones are marked with arrows). There are still two screws on top (above the F1-F2 and END-INS buttons). The area above the keyboard is covered with a white plastic strip that simply snaps into place.


After snapping the plastic strip over the keyboard, the top of the case is ready.

Now let's go back to the bottom cover. Install the screws as in the photo:

We put the hard drive in place. As always, carefully and gently (and most importantly - to the end) we combine the connectors. There is no need to screw in the disk housing fixing screws yet.

A line of remaining screws on the back cover. The screws of the hard drive compartment cover secure the drive itself into the body of the laptop. Finally, close and tighten the three screws of the central memory compartment, modem and network card.

All that remains is to install the battery, remove the bandages and check the functionality!

After everything boots successfully and there are no visible problems, it’s good to go into the device manager in Windows or lspci and its ilk in Linux or system information in Mac to make sure that the peripherals are successfully recognized and working. After successfully passing the test, you can finally exhale, relax and enjoy the integrity of the device, which was just distributed in an even layer on the table and boxes, and is now breathing life.

• If possible, carry out work on a clean, flat surface, free of small abrasive particles. Crawling on the table is inevitable, so the patient's body may be scratched. From an uneven surface, small parts will always strive to run down.
• Treat the screws carefully, pack them in reliable containers to be able to quickly pack the [semi]disassembled device before the best assembly time. The likelihood of procrastination is quite high, and, in my opinion, this is a good habit.
• Be careful about documenting the disassembly process. Best of all, take a photo. If you don’t take pictures, then write them down and sketch them. The specificity of the repair is that we return to assembly, sometimes much later than planned. Something has distracted you or you don’t have enough moral strength at the moment - everything should be ready to resume repairs in time >> time, when you even more or less remember the order of screwing in and the purpose of the screws. Write down/mark specially not noticeable moments, such as a poorly visible disconnected cable.
• When working to separate plastic parts, resist the temptation to use a flathead screwdriver or a knife. Use dielectric (if electronics are nearby) tools that are softer than the parts being separated. The same applies to the disconnection of thin metal connections, where it is important to maintain an intact appearance. A planed disposable Chinese chopstick is an excellent candidate.
• Be aware of electrostatic hazards. Do not touch parts of the boards with metal objects (such as tweezers) and do not bring them close. It is better not to use metal tools at all except a screwdriver. Regularly touch a safe solid metal part of the device, such as the connector housing, with your hand and a screwdriver to equalize the potentials. Or use an antistatic wrist strap.
• Be gentle, kind and considerate with connectors. Remember the “science of contacts.” In my opinion, a huge number of problems can be avoided by being careful when connecting connectors.
• Try to understand the purpose of this or that cable, keep track of where it goes, what it connects. Pay special attention if you think something doesn't seem logical. Don't wave your hand at such a moment. This is your chance to upgrade your level of understanding, your ability to understand, and with them the general experience that is so necessary when solving more complex problems.
• In my opinion, patience, desire and a reasonable approach can work wonders in repairs, even if you have not yet accumulated any experience. Don't be afraid to explore an unknown problem. With a careful and patient approach, you can stop in time when faced with an unknown/unsolvable problem and take reversible (that's what neatness is for) steps in reverse order, at least ending up where you started.

Good luck!